dry cleaning dilemmas

Moschino dry cleaning cape overlay dress, Autumn Winter 2017. Image courtesy of Moschino.

A recent dry cleaning disaster made me ask myself how frequently dry cleaning problems such as broken buttons, shrunken garments and colour loss occur, and why so many garments are now labeled “Dry Clean Only”? According to The New York Times, Proctor and Gamble found in 2008, that 65% of clothing that was being dry-cleaned was machine-washable. Having worked in fashion, I am cynical about the labeling of garments and often hand wash items including cashmere knits and silk blouses, that are labeled Dry Clean Only. Certain obvious exceptions to my denial of stated instructions, include tailored items, leathers, suede and beaded garments. Am I dicing with disaster?
 
Dry cleaning has been used to maintain clothing since the Roman era. In its modern incarnation, it is based on cleaning clothes and textiles with chemical solvents, usually tetrachloroethylene, referred to as Perc, adopted due to its excellent cleaning properties, low cost and non-flammable nature. The term dry cleaning is a misnomer as garments do get wet, even though the cleaning solvent isn’t water based. Since the recession, many people are more prudent about spending and dry cleaning is a luxury that has been cut back by thrifty households. Does this short-term saving have long-term implications for our wardrobes? Or is author India Knight right when she writes in her book, Thrift that “dry cleaning is mostly a myth and an exorbitant myth at that”?
 
William Barry of Barry’s Dry Cleaners in Greystones and Wicklow admits that: “Manufacturers seem to think that by putting a Dry Clean Only Label on the garment, that it is the safest thing to do. Many garments carrying Dry Clean Only labels can be successfully hand washed with care.  Wool, silk and even cashmere can be washed if you are careful with them. Reshape and dry flat. Avoid washing some man-made fabrics such as viscose and rayon and never wash a structured garment i.e. a suit jacket.” He is adamant about the benefits of professional dry cleaning: “A professional dry cleaner will know just by looking at a garment which process has to be carried out. From safe stain removal to cleaning the garment and just as important the shaping and finishing of the garment.”  He advises that keeping clothes clean prolongs their lifespan: “If (a soiled garment) is put away with a stain containing sugar for example the stain can oxidize and become quite difficult to remove.”
 
Brigid Hoey of Craft Cleaners, (an expert dry cleaner in Dublin) disagrees that washing is ok for certain dry clean only garments. She explains: “Dry cleaning prolongs the life of the garment, and we emphasise that customers seek out 'professional' dry cleaners only.” She continues: “for stain-removal dry cleaning is far superior to washing. There is a lesser risk of shrinkage in dry cleaning than in washing (by either machine or hand).  Garments may not withstand washing over many years, but will retain their original look and feel through dry cleaning.”
 
 If even the experts differ, it’s not surprising there is consumer confusion around dry cleaning. Europe has no mandatory requirements for care labeling – a voluntary code encourages the clothing industry to use the International Organisation for Standardisation’s symbols. There is a suspicion that manufacturers may put dry clean only instructions on some garments unnecessarily, (a) to avoid the expense of testing them (b) to ensure that the items are cleaned professionally to decrease the risk of domestic laundry disasters and (c) because they can list no more than one cleaning method and can be held liable if an item is damaged when the customer follows the stated procedure. Strictly, dry clean only labeling, should only be used when cleaning with water will cause shrinkage, colour-change or loss of garment shape. For cleaners as well as consumers, inaccurate care labeling is frustrating i.e. if the wrong solvent is nominated on a label or a delicate trim not suitable for dry cleaning is attached to a dry clean only garment.

Care labels for laundry and dry cleaning.

Apart from the expense of dry cleaning, some are wary of the environmental impact of Perc on the atmosphere and on human welfare. Perc was the first chemical to be classified as carcinogenic in the USA by the EPA and must be handled as hazardous waste there. In fairness, dry cleaning machines in the West don’t dispel emissions into the atmosphere because their exhausts are enclosed and sensors also monitor when all the Perc has been removed from garments. Despite this a study by Georgetown University showed that some Perc is retained in dry cleaned clothes and that levels of the solvent increase with repeat cleaning. The dry-cleaning industry asserts that 99.9% of all Perc is removed from garments but sustained exposure to high levels of Perc has serious health complications. The French government has introduced a law banning the use of Perc at dry cleaning establishments that are close to occupied buildings. The ban comes into full force in 2020 and follows a similar law passed in Denmark.
 
 There are two greener alternatives to Perc-based cleaning: wet cleaning uses water, along with computer-controlled washers and dryers, specialised detergents that are milder than domestic detergents, and professional pressing and finishing equipment. Its benefits include no hazardous chemical use, no hazardous waste generation, no air pollution and reduced potential for water and soil contamination. Carbon dioxide (CO2) cleaning uses non-toxic, liquid CO as the cleaning solvent, along with detergent. The CO2 is captured as a by-product of existing industrial processes, thereby using emissions that would otherwise be released into the atmosphere. Its impact on global warming is minimal and CO2 cleaning also uses less energy than traditional dry cleaning. Currently Green cleaning is offered by Barry’s Dry Cleaners and Bee Clean who have branches in the west of Ireland. Rita Langan of Bee Clean says that they use specially formulated biodegradable detergents and that clothing is cleaned in washers that limit water absorption and monitor both agitation and temperature. After being totally dried, garments are formed on specialized equipment and custom hand finished. She claims that the results are impressive with soft fresh, colour true clothes that have no chemical odour. 
 
Although most dry cleaners are reputable and provide a professional service, it is the occasional bad experience of a poorly cleaned or even damaged garment that lingers in the aggrieved customer’s memory. If a dry cleaner does damage your garment and won’t accept responsibility it can be a frustrating and expensive experience. Brigid Hoey advises: “Discuss the problem with your dry cleaner. If the problem occurs, as the result of a manufacturing flaw, etc. return the garment to the place of purchase accompanied by a report from the dry cleaner.”
 
William Barry suggests: “If it is established between the dry cleaner and the client that the dry cleaner has damaged a garment then it is a no-brainer that they should discuss compensation. The client, should also take into account depreciation, when settling on a figure.  If the dry cleaner refuses then it’s off to the Small Claims Court.”

For clients becoming caught in a tug of war regarding responsibility for the damage is a stressful situation. Advice from consumer organisations is also limited: the National Consumer Agency has a page on its website (http://www.consumerhelp.ie/small-claims) which advises about the Small Claims Process but not all will have the heart to pursue this option, as it is time-consuming despite a reasonable application fee of €25. To avoid problems, it is wise to choose your dry cleaner carefully. If you are concerned about a precious piece or a stain discuss it with the cleaner in advance. Brigid Hoey advises: “Look for qualifications/credentials on display in the shop-front. Best recommendation is always word-of-mouth.” Always check for membership of a professional association of dry cleaners or a stated code of practice re how garments are cleaned and cared for.

My conclusion is that serious stains and precious pieces are best left to the professionals but many garments are capable of being hand-washed with care and caution. And with all those thriftily saved dry-cleaning fees you could buy a new dress instead.
 
The History of Dry Cleaning
The Romans used dry-cleaners called fullonicaes, who cleaned woollen togas and cloaks with a mixture of Fuller’s earth and ammonia, derived from animal urine.
Jean Baptiste Jolly pioneered the use of petroleum-based solvents such as kerosene to remove stains after seeing how some kerosene spilled from a lamp removed a stain from a tablecloth. He invented the phrase “nettoyage a sec”. The use of these highly flammable solvents caused many fires and explosions.
From the 1930s dry cleaners adopted Perc, which is now the industry standard. Green cleaning options now include wet cleaning and CO2 cleaning.
 
Advice for Cleaning
 Always check the dry clean symbol. If it shows a solvent other than Perc, discuss the options with your cleaner.
If the item is particularly special photograph it before leaving it with the cleaner.
Remove all belts and detachable accessories to prevent loss or damage.
Use specialist cleaners for delicate items such as beaded pieces, sequins, furs, leathers and suede.
Always keep your original garment receipts for a year or two so you have proof of the price in case of seeking compensation.
Check out your cleaner before entrusting garments to them – look for personal recommendations from friends and family.
Identify stains clearly to the cleaner.
If a dry cleaner is cheap then there is probably a reason for it – low prices can mean low standards. 
Items with protein-based stains such as perspiration, urine and blood are generally better wet washed as these stains typically dissolve better with detergent and water. If in doubt, talk to your cleaner.
Rita Langan of Bee Clean, advises that you're not supposed to wear a garment that has been dry-cleaned with Perc for 13 days after collecting it and thoroughly airing it, by removing all the packaging/plastic etc.
Never store your garment in the dry-cleaning plastic covering.

Barrys Dry Cleaners – Standard Perc based dry cleaning, wet cleaning and C02 cleaning, Greystones Tel: Phone: (01) 2877390 and Wicklow town Tel: (0404) 62446

Craft Cleaners – Expert dry cleaning and alterations.
12 Baggot Street Upper,Dublin 4
Tel: 01 6688198
 
Bee Green Cleaners - wet cleaning with detergents that are fully bio-degradable - Altamount Street, Westport Tel: 098-56050, Knockthomas, Castlebar Tel: 094-9021354, American Street, Belmullet Tel: 097-20008, Steamship House, Galway Harbour Tel: 091-507974.